SO MUCH FUN IN LONGREACH

THERE IS SO MUCH TO DO IN LONGREACH!

Quite surprising really considering the size of the town. They really seem to have the tourism thing switched on and welcome us all wholeheartedly. I would imagine tourists make quite a contribution to this outback town economically. One company in particular, Kinnon & Co, do it really well and have embraced the whole outback theme and turned it into a real entertainment and information experience. They offer packages or individual experiences. We chose the Pioneer Package and had an absolute ball ! It cost us $204.00 each but we think it was so very worth it.  There is just so much I could write about what we did, and the fun we had in Longreach but I will summarise or it would take up pages and pages, as it has in my written journal.

Caravan Park – Longreach Caravan Park

The smallest van park in longreach, a bit daggy, but the most friendly.  Lovely casual atmosphere and the people who stay at this park are friendly, casual and down to earth. Good hot showers, old fashioned shower heads, so you get a nice soak.  The owners ring the cowbell at 10am and 4pm for free smoko and perhaps bush poetry or live music. Great place to stay.

Qantas Museum.

Now I am not really into planes but the tour of the 747 was really quite interesting, as was our guide. I really don’t know how she remembers everything but she is chocka block full of information, and quite entertaining as well.  We were informed of all the ins and outs and ups and downs of a 747 and the history of that particular plane. The museum itself is very nice and if you are into planes and history you would be there all day reading and looking. My father loves this sort of thing and would be there for a week. The tour guide would have a nervous breakdown if he ever visited. Nice coffee there too – priorities!!

Starlights Spectacular.

Held at the Kinnon & Co Station Store. Bloody hilarious and well worth it. Richard Kinnon and his two young boys put on a show of a fictional day in the life of Harry Readford (famous cattle duffer). The show involves a magnificent cremello stallion, an equally gorgeous buckskin, a red heeler dog and a very well feathered rooster. Very entertaining and comical Goes for approximately an hour. Not allowed to take photos of the show though. Bugger!

Cobb & Co Stagecoach Ride.

Once again put on by Kinnon & Co and leaves from the Station Store. What a highlight of our trip so far! I was lucky enough to sit up top next to Richard while we toured Longreach and then went for a gallop through the scrub – well…. along a track. You don’t gallop in the scrub in case a roo jumps out and gets tangled up in 16 legs! It has happened.  Four beautiful grey Percheron horses pulled our coach.   Joe and his mum and dad sat inside the stagecoach and loved it as well. Richard provides an interesting and entertaining commentary on the history of Longreach and of Cobb & Co via the headsets that are provided. It’s not for the faint of heart and apparently insurance wise is up there with bungee jumping.  The Stagecoach ride goes for approximately an hour, its actually quite hard on the horses. Its bloody awesome though!!! After that its tea and scones (OMG it was so yum! The best ever!) and then an old movie called Smiley about a mischievous young boy growing up in the fifties or sixties.  Cool!

Sunset Paddle Boat Cruise and Bushmans campfire dinner. 

Once again run by Kinnon & Co. Richard picked us up in the large bus (is there anything that man doesn’t do!) and drove us out to the Paddle Boat on the Thompson River. Its powered by diesel, not steam.  There we cruised up the river for about an hour, enjoying nibblies, the beautiful reflections on the water and the gorgeous sunset. 

After the cruise we all had a bushmans dinner of stew, apple dessert, tea and damper around the campfire while listening to Scotty recite bush poetry and tell jokes which was brilliant and at times bloody hilarious.It was a great night. Richard then dropped us back at the van park.

Australian Stockmans Hall of Fame.

Very big and very well done. It’s a beautiful big building with lovely architecture and full of
information and history.

The highlight was the stockmans show out the back. Luke (who puts it on) is a former horse breaker turned entertainer and larrikin.  A very skilled horseman he puts on a brilliant and hilarious show.  He is very good a telling tall bullshit stories and you laugh and laugh at his antics. This show involves 3 brilliantly trained paint horses, a gorgeous camel called Alice, 3 very intelligent sheep dogs and 6 huge bullocks. Had a ball!

The only thing that we got in the package that we didn’t do was the hour long tour of The School of the Air. We got the tour time wrong and missed it by half an hour! Oh well…shit happens!

Well, these were the main things we did at Longreach and we can highly recommend them all. There was so much more we could have done there but we can’t do everything! Full credit to Richard Kinnon and his family for entertaining us  “terrorists” and for what he has done for the town of Longreach. They love what they do, they work hard, they love the area and it’s very obvious.

PLAINS, RAIN AND BOG

ISISFORD CAMPGROUND

Under cloudy skies we left Blackall and moved on to Isiford. The trip was really nice with long grassy plains stretching either side of the road - you can see forever. And we could see clouds - lots of them! Oh well...more rain.

Now, if the weather had been good Isisford camp would have been great. However, its been raining off and on and everything is turning to sticky, yucky bog. The place is huge and the camp encompasses both sides of the Barcoo River. There are a heap of other campers and vans here and none of them are moving any time soon. Bogged in! Isisford is a tiny town that, like many others in remote Aust, has suffered greatly, but is hanging on thanks to the tourists and people fishing for the famous Yellowbelly in the Barcoo River. Which by the way have made themselves very scarce of late (maybe they heard I was coming!).  Apparently its due to the cold weather. So I never caught one, but no-one else has been catching them either. Still, its a great place to camp and quite a few campers have been here for months. One bloke has been here for 8 weeks and still hasn't got a yellowbelly, but his wife got one. Go girls!



SUNBAKING DRAGON

We made a mad run for it after four days or rain and drizzle. One day of sun was all we needed and we took advantage of the break before it started again.  We had quite an audience watching our escape which we did with ease. Our boys know how to drive! We spent that night up behind the council chambers on dry ground. Well...a bit drier.

CLANYCYS OVERFLOW HOTEL
HAS NOW CLOSED DUE TO THE OWNER
BEING DEPORTED BECAUSE OF VISA ISSUES!

The next morning we headed out to Ilfracombe. Interesting trip that one. Its a single lane road with boggy edges. Luckily we didn't have too much traffice coming at us. Our little convoy had to be very cautious though.


ON ONE OF OUR DRIVES WE FINALLY FOUND
BROLGAS. AND ONE OF THEM
DANCED FOR US - BRILLIANT!

ILFRACOMBEWe next made ourselves at home at the Ilfracombe Caravan Park. Its a darling little park with good facilities and "Happy Hour" every night with entertainment and nibblies.

HAPPY HOUR. STANDING ROOM
ONLY AFTER 5.30!
HUGELY POPULAR!

One of the owners, Cathy, tells the best bawdy jokes. We normally avoid caravan parks, preferring to free camp, but its nice having as much power as I like, and having long hot showers. But you can't even fart without the next door van hearing you!!! Luckily the bloke beside us is a bit deaf. Talk about "old farts in caravan parks" - they are everywhere!!!


WELLSHOT HOTEL

Right next door to us (literally) is the Wellshot Hotel. Its the best pub I have ever been in with good old country decor and paraphenalia everywhere including a display of akubra hats on the roof and even a bathtub! I could be converted into a pub person if all the pubs out this way are like that. Just down the road is an artesian spa, a gorgeous shop and a post office. On the opposite side of the road is the "machinery mile", an interesting historic display of old machinery of all sorts including a few small museums and collection displays. Its a very small town but really nice.


JOE AND KEV CHECKING OUT ONE OF THE DISPLAYS

MUM-IN-LAW, BEV,
PRETENDING TO BE ONE OF THE
THE BEVERLEY HILLBILLIES

LOVE CENTRAL WEST QUEENSLAND

Wow...we love it out here. Not remote enough for Joe yet I think. The countryside is beautiful and so very vast. We cannot wait to see more of it and go further inland.
It has been very cold of late. The lowest so far is 1.3 degrees overnight, but the days have been sunny and warm. Luckily it is starting to get a bit warmer of a night now. Its 16 degrees at the moment at 8.45 pm (heatwave!)

We arrived at Baracldine on Thursday and loved the town immediately. It has a really nice feel to it and has that true outback town look about it. Big old pubs with big verandahs, shops with character and a fabulous bakery. Oh yes, the bakery does make the best pies.
We camped at Lloyd Joes Weir, about 14 kms from town. Its a very popular spot with not a lot of room, so vans are somewhat cramped and without a lot of privacy. On the upside the toilet facility is great and very clean and well kept. There are numerous tracks to explore and heaps of kangaroos, so letting Diva off for a free run wasn't an option at all here. She might never come back with so many hoppy roo to chase. We have a 3 metre long lead for these occassions.

Camp at Lloyd Jones Weir (fifth wheeler in the background)

We met up with some people Bev and Kev had previously met. Jane and Keven are from Hobart but now live permanently on the road in their HUGE fifth wheeler. It is very nice but way too big for us. Couldn't have a campfire here because of where we had to camp and we missed it with the cold nights but we coped. There is no tv reception, limited phone and no internet reception. Caught up on our reading instead.

Grave outside the toilet block - haha

On Friday we went into Barcaldine and enjoyed a few hours at the campdraft. What a huge event! It was awesome. There are over 1000 entries and runs over three days. Huge fifth wheeler floats, horse trucks, cattle trucks, campers and horse floats everywhere. The most gorgeous of stock horses in their pens or tied to floats. I got very envious I must admit and really, really was missing riding. Still, it was great to watch such skilled horses and riders and I got some nice photos of them in action. Also of a really cute puppy that took a liking to a xxxx can.  Bit young to drink!

After the campdraft we had a look at the Tree Of Knowledge, The Workers Heritage Centre and a bit of a look about the town. There is a lot of history here and very well presented for the tourists.  Oh, and had another pie at the bakery - soooo naughty!!  It is quite a historic place and one that we like very much.

The historic Tree of Knowledge

One of the five pubs at Barcaldine

Cutting horse sculpture outside the Aquatic Centre at Blackall

Saturday we left Barcaldine and headed to Blackall.  There was so much roadkill! And they reckon there is heaps in Tassie. Not a patch on this stretch of road. Nearly every 50-100 metres there was a body or evidence of a kill. Blackall is another historic town with lots of country character. This town is a little bit of an oasis. There are lots of trees, grass and parks. The campground is large, roomy and on the banks of the Barcoo River. Was very nice to have privacy again and lots of room for Diva to run around. Liked this campground very much. Costs $5 per vehicle per night. No facilities. Quite a few other vans here but its so big that everyone can spread out and have their own space. I still can't get over how many vans are travelling up here. Nearly every vehicle on the road is towing a van or camper trailer. And the caravan parks are all full. Lucky we don't like camping in caravan parks much.

Sculpture at the campground

Sunday we drove around the town and looked at the lovely buildings and tourist attractions - Jackie Howe statue, The Black Stump, The Wool Scourer, various sculptures and the graveyard.

This display of old saddlery is in someones front yard

Emus on the outskirts of town

The historic Black Stump

Statue of Jackie Howe the famous shearer

After lunch back at camp we went to the Artesian spa and pool. OMG how good was that! The water for the whole town comes from an artesian bore and the bore also supplies the pool and heats it as well. It was so nice and warm at 28 degrees and the spa was a lovely toasty 40 degrees. Soooo relaxing. We all enjoyed a lovely long swim and spa. The pool is a 50 metre pool and the spa can fit about 8 people.  I didn't think Joe was every going to get out! We are leaving Blackall tomorrow and moving on to Isisford.

The grave of Roy Dunne who jumped a goat over a 3 foot fence

Enjoying the artesian spa

BACK ON THE ROAD

We left Willow Gemfields on Sunday. Can't believe we had been there a month. It went so quickly.  As much as we enjoyed our time there, with Ron and Marjory, and digging for buried treasure, we were eager to get going again. We didnt find our fortune in gems but we do have some pretty sapphires that are treasure to us. Ron and Marj had a few tears as we left. I don't think that they get many visitors up there in the sticks. Which is sad as they are lovely people.

GREAT DIVIDING RANGE

AN OLD RAILWAY STATION

We hit the road mid morning and had a few stops on the way looking at historic sites and a lookout on the Great Dividing Range. Long straight roads make for easy and comfortable driving. Actually I really am enjoying the driving. So different from drving in Tassie. And the 'cruiser is just like driving an armchair. Thankfully the weather has turned sunny and warm again with endless clear blue skies. We have so been looking forward to seeing the outback blue sky with no clouds, no wind and no rain. The nights are cold though. We have had 3 degrees mornings for the last few days but the days are warm and by the afternoon you can usually wear a singlet and shorts.



HAVING A BREAK

We are now at a gorgeous freebie campsite, on the river at Jericho. It is probably one of the best we have stayed at. We had only planned to stay one night but that quickly become three nights!  Diva can run around freely and loves being by the campfire. I am absolutely loving having the campfire again. Even with the stinky clothes! Twin tub fixes that - so no problem. The boys have been going and cutting wood and transporting it on the tailgate of my 'cruiser. Better not be any huge hairy spiders in it!!!  I got up at 5.30 this morning and stoked the fire up. Joe and I sat there in the dark and quietness with our coffee and enjoyed the stillness and the brightness of the stars.....and then went back to bed. Well it was only 3 degrees!

NICE LOAD OF FIREWOOD FIL!

VIEW FROM OUR CAMPFIRE

HORSES IN THE BUSH, ALONG THE RIVER WALK

There are quite a few birds that visit our camp and wade along the riverbank as well as the many that are up in the trees. I have got quite a few shots of them. The one below is a Kingfisher that has been catching small fish in front of our camp.

KINGFISHER

It is a very peaceful spot. There is an abundance of wood for fires, fresh water on tap and rubbish bins. No-one seems to be able to catch any fish though. One guy had been here for a week and didn't even have a bite. I have had a bit of a go too but had the same problem. Probably would help if I had some decent bait but we didn't think of that when we in Emerald doing our shopping. We were told (by the guy at the shop) about a nearby dam that has huge yellowbelly in it so we may wander over and give that a go later on.
I feel very "at home" out here and it will be interesting to see what the towns are like further up the track.